Galashiels

It is a pretty short hop from Melrose to Galashiels. Although the latter is not as scenic, it is a handsome town whose motto: "We dye to live and we live to die" makes reference to the now almost defunct textile industry. When I asked a shopkeeper for the best vantage point for a picture of the town, he replied without hesitation: "Wales." Unfair! (see above).

The town exploded onto the map during the Industrial Revolution from the production of tweeds and woollen hosiery. The architecture and spaciousness of the buildings suggest considerable erstwhile wealth. It is now the Borders' leading town, whose other motto, `Soor Plooms', still stands. It commemorates a Border foray in 1337 when some English soldiers, caught while picking wild plums, were put to the sword. Any event involving the death of the English is celebrated up here, so take note. The Battle of Flodden is neither forgotten nor forgiven!

The Lochcarron Cashmere And Wool Centre, with the Galashiels museum of the town is within the mill T:+44 (0)1896 751199). Factory shop.

Borders Family History Society, within Old Gala House & Scott Gallery, where you can check census returns, births, marriages and deaths to see if you hail from the Borders (T:+44 (0)1896 850264).

Old Gala House & Scott Gallery, Scott Crescent, Gala TD1, dates from 1583 and is the former home of the Lairds of Galashiels. Displays and exhibitions, family history, tearooms and garden. Admission is free.

Old Parish and St Paul's Church, Scott Crescent, Gala TD1, great example of Gothic revival with a 57m steeple finsihed in 1885. Fine stained glass with a notable memorial tripbute to Queen Victoria.

The way out is uphill; up Gala Terrace, then Elm Row, up steep Gala Hill along an overhung and pleasant lane that confusingly takes you south, past Hollybush and down to a crossroads, where the lane meets the B7060. Turn right, going past The Rink, some 5km or so from Gala. Head past Yair Bridge 3km west. You are quite high above the Tweed, down to your left. There are some excellent views. At Yair Bridge (take a peek at Yair, one of the Borders' finest privately owned houses) you join up with the often busy A707, which you must follow for about 3 km. Take care!

About 1km beyond Caddonfoot there is a little left-turn over a bridge. You're off the main road now. Head along a delightful little lane, which takes you along the Tweed, past Ashiesteel, Elibank, the castle ruins and West Bold. After about 11km you will be opposite Walkerburn, where you can stop off should you wish - a bridge conveniently crosses the Tweed by the disused railway yard. Otherwise, go straight on for 3 or 4km and you come out on the B709.

Just a few hundred metres to the left is the village of Traquair, and the famous Traquair House. Go right, and you head back across the Tweed and into Innerleithen. This is the last stop-off point before the long haul over the Moorfoot Hills. After that, it's Edinburgh, some 61km!