Norham

Over the Border

Now it's time to head inland on the second half of the journey. The path takes you out past Berwick Castle, past the station. You now cross the bridge over the rail lines and head up the incline of Castle Terrace. Here a sign post takes you down a track to the left, running parallel with the A1 at Letham Shank. After less than 2km you cross (very carefully) this ghastly road and head along the B6461. If you fancy taking a diversion around Paxton House, follow Route 68 - it brings you back on Route 1 and the B6461 at South Paxton Mains.

Otherwise, just follow the road running parallel with the glorious Tweed, traversing the Whiteadder, until you cross the border 2.5km down the road. Watch out for a sharp left a couple more km further on, taking you past Tweedhill, Chain Bridge House and the Union Suspension Bridge. Half-way across the Tweed, you are once again back in England. You now pass the Honey Farm and follow the minor road around the outskirts of Horncliffe.

A good spot to stop for a pint and/or some food is the Fishers Arms (T:+44 (0)1289 386866) at Horncliffe. Take a right into the village and it's just a minute away - a small coaching inn dating from 1760, with a roaring log fire for cold days (a common occurrence in this part of the world). Andrew Miller, the proprietor-chef, serves everything from snacks to steaks, and cask conditioned ale. Lunches 12-2; dinners 7-9.

NORHAM

From Horncliffe to Norham, the route takes its last English leg, having crossed to the southern banks of the Tweed for 5km or so. Strictly speaking, therefore, Horncliffe and Norham should come under the English section of this guide, but since they have both been fought over and changed nationality in the past, they shall, for the purposes of this exercise book, be reclaimed by Scotland.

From here it's about 6km to the ancient and once important community of Norham. The Norman church of St Cuthbert, down by the banks of the Tweed, faces the castle across the triangular village green. The castle itself has a spectacularly violent past, as its ruined state attests. It is a noble wreck, the obvious victim of war and neglect, but is nonetheless a fine sight. Having been left on its knees in smouldering ruins, this architectural supplicant poignantly conjures up the whiff of smoke and echoes to the cry of battle.

Originally built in 1121 by the Bishop of Durham, it was fought over constantly. In 1318 Robert Bruce laid siege to it with the latest artillery while he was busily engaged in wasting the rest of Northumberland. The siege of Norham went on for one year, without success. A seven month attempt in 1319 also foundered, while three further sieges also failed to deliver the castle to the Scots.

However, in 1513 Henry VIII invaded France, so James IV of Scotland took the opportunity - with the support of the French - to cross the Tweed and, by August 22, was besieging Norham. Two days' cannoning succeeded where all previous sieges had failed. It surrendered on August 29, and since then has looked much the same; no more did it stand as a northern fastness against the Scottish hordes. James moved on to capture Ford Castle and, on September 8 - the eve of the Battle of Flodden - he captured Etal Castle. But these were pyrrhic victories, for by the following afternoon he and virtually all of Scotland's nobility, plus tens of thousands of fellow kinsmen, met their fate at Flodden. Norham is a poignant testimony to the Anglo-Scottish power struggle.

The pinkish-coloured edifice rises high on the rocks above the Tweed and the view of it from the riverside near the bridge haunted the painter Turner from the moment he saw it as a young man.

NORHAM TO COLDSTREAM

Head out of Norham on the B6470, taking it round to the right so that you cross the Tweed (and the border) again. At the cross-roads, head left to the hamlet of Upsettlington, where you bear right for 1.5km until the T-junction with the B6437, at which point you go left. You will soon be high enough above the Tweed to enjoy some sensational views across towards the Cheviot Hills, across the rolling landscape of pure, unspoilt, ancient Northumberland.

Cross the A6112. Less than 1km is another T-junction. Head right, then left, past Coldstream Mains, and up to the Hirsel Country Park. There is a T-junction. You can either go right to continue the route, or left into the historic Borders town of Coldstream, where there is accommodation, watering and victuals.


Accommodation

Lesley Hulse

Fishers Arms, Horncliffe, Norham





Telephone  +44 (0)1289 386866.

Rooms  1T

B&B  £30

EM  £5.95 to £11.25

PL  £4



A good spot to stop for a pint and/or some food is the Fishers Arms at Horncliffe. Lesley Hulse, the proprietor-cook, now also does accommodation. The Fishers is one minute from the route and is a small coaching inn dating back to 1760. There’s a welcoming coal fire and hearty eating between 12-2 and 6.30-8.30pm.













Joe McGurk

The Victoria Hotel, 3 Castle St, Norham, TD15 2LQ





Tel  01289 382437

Email  lindamcgurk@hotmail.co.uk

Rooms  1T, 2D

B&B  £25-£35

EM  £7.50-£15

PL  from £3

Inspection  Pending



Lively hub of the village, this family run small Victorian period-piece hotel with its inviting open fire place, real ale and home cooking, is a haven for cyclists and fishermen. Secure lock-up for bikes, drying facilities and old-fashioned warmth opposite a traditional English village green that happens (just) to be in Scotland. 'All rooms en-suite and clean,' says Lorraine. Full refurbishment of rooms January 2008.









Sarah Frizzel

Dromore House, 12 Pedwell Way, Norham, Berwick, TD15 2LD





Telephone  01289 382313

Rooms  3 (1 dbl, 1 twin, 1 family)

B&B  £27.50 - £30

Packed Lunch  £3

Evening meal  £10

Distance from C&C  On route



Peaceful spot in the
lovely, ancient village of Norham on the River Tweed.
All the rooms have tea-making facilities, TV and are
en-suite.