Warkworth

Coming out of Amble take the cycle path along the A1068 for 2km up to Warkworth. It is more direct than the Sustrans alternative, and follows the estuary.
At the top of the hill, take a right. Round the bend you see the castle. Those not rushing should take the time to visit - it is arguably the most splendid ruin of its type in Northumbria. Largely intact, it has retained its original character thanks to not being heavily restored. Originally built in 1139, the main sections of the castle were constructed in the late 14th century. The castle, which completely dominates Warkworth, was in the hands of the Percy family for more than 600 years until given to the Crown in 1922.
The jewel amongst English Heritage's northern castles, architecturally it is a mixed bag: every century, from the 12th onwards, bears its imprimatur. Along with Alnwick castle, it was home to the Percy family, and Harry Hotspur, the first Earl of Northumberland's son, who was killed at the Battle of Shrewsbury in 1403. It is also Shakespeare's setting for Henry IV, Part II. It also has a 5-star lock-up, with its own window, fireplace, cupboards and WC, clearly built for Very Important Prisoners.
Warkworth has plenty of pubs and eateries, and is a charming village bottled into a loop in the river Coquet. Notwithstanding the posh prison, one of the best places to stay now is the Sun Hotel, directly opposite the Castle, or the Roxbro B&B next door; both have the best possible views of this striking edifice.
Accommodation
Joanne and Anthony Middlemas
Sun Hotel, 6 Castle Terrace, Warkworth NE 65 0UP
Tel
01665 711259
Fax
01665 711833
Web
www.coopersinns.co.uk
Email
sunhotel@rytonpark-sun.co.uk
Rooms
4T, 7D, 1F.
B&B
From £42.50
Packed Lunch
From £5
Evening meal
From £6.50 to £15
Northumbria Tourist Board
2-stars
The hotel was built in
the 17th century and is opposite the dramatic ruins of
the castle. The conservatory offers spectacular views
of the river and sea, and there's a superb choice of
bar meals at lunch time and in the evening. Plenty of
lock-up space for bikes.
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Norman & Judy Tindall
Warkworth Old Post Office, 32 Castle St, NE65 0UL
Telephone
01665 711341
Website
www.visitalnwick.org.uk/accommodation/a_bb_coast.htm
Email
warkwortholdpostoffice@hotmail.com
Rooms
1T/D, 1D
B&B
£27.50-£32 (single occ.)
VisitBritain
3 stars
Charming former post office in the town's main street. Cycle friendly and very reasonably priced, there's a secure lock-up and drying facilities.
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Serena Coulter
The Old Manse, 20 The Butts, Warkworth, NE65 0SS
T
01665 710850
W
www.oldmanse.info
E
a.coulter1@btinternet.com
Rooms
2 D/T
B&B
£30
Grade II Victorian house on a charming little street, just over the bridge beside the river Coquet. The front garden overlooks the river and there is a wonderful view over the castle from the back of the house. Cycle friendly and secure lock-up.
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Sue & Geoff Lillico
Aulden, 9 Watershaugh Rd, Warkworth, NE65 0TT
Tel/Fax
01665 711583
Web
www.warkworthbedandbreakfast.co.uk
Email
auldenbandb@hotmail.com
Rooms
1D, 1T (both en-suite)
B&B
£24-£26
Packed lunch
£5.50
On route
Close to amenities
'Aulden' has greeted cyclists and walkers alike for many years with a warm and friendly welcome. Secure lock-up for bikes. After a restful night's sleep, a hearty breakfast will see you on your way along the Northumberland coast.
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To leave town you cross the river Coquet. Watch out for a sharp right, signposted for the beach and cemetery. You can take this turn, or go lett slightly further up the road, following a longer route through the lanes into Alnmouth.
I prefer the former, as it is coastal and more scenic. Make sure you stop and look back at the castle as you go up the hill. This is the best vantage point for this formidable bastion; on seeing this, marauders from the north must have thought twice before advancing. The whole village is laid out before you with its teashops, pubs and hotels all bottled into the tightly packed peninsula created by the river. This is the best view of Warkworth, the place to shoot your pictures.
At the top of the hill you head lett onto a track which shortly brings you back to the edge of the A1068. Atter 100m it veers right. Follow the cycle signs for Alnmouth, the next settlement up the coast.
The sea appears behind a wooden footbridge, slapping around the base of the Birling Carrs rocks, a grand, grey and deeply uninviting expanse, except when the sun comes out. To the right a distant lighthouse looms above the rocky Amble shore. You then pass through a patch of beach devoted to a discreet but slightly shabby caravan park, which thankfully merges tastefully into the sandy undulations.