Tynemouth & Whitley Bay

Its just a short ride up the coast road from Tynemouth to Whitley Bay. Is impossible not to notice that this resort, with Pleasure Dome, Spanish City and Seaside villas, is geared up for tourism and little else. Every other building offers food, drink or accomodation- or all three. Whitley Bay is a striking seaside resort, and in the past was a thriving holiday resort for tourists. It is currently attempting to rediscover its former glory, when smart Geordies would jocky for position on Newcastle Coast's promenade.
There are 60s high rise flats and men in cloth caps walking whippets and tending pigeon lotts. The route (marked C2C and 72) leads continuously along the north bank, past the Segedunum Roman Fort, to the end of the Hadrian's Wall National Trail.
A couple of miles down river on the opposite bank sits Jarrow, home of the Venerable Bede, and the Bede's World Museum. It was also the starting point for the Jarrow March. Two hundred strikers descended upon London in 1936 and made one of the most striking political statements in British working class history.
As you approach the Royal Quays North Sea Ferry Terminus make sure you follow the signs (easily missed) and go to the LEFT of the Wet `n' Wild water centre (you can't miss it - the giant flume tubes look like part of some space-age factory). Follow the path through landscaped public gardens in which an incongruous cluster of wooden sea groynes stand, as if awaiting tidal erosion. Turn lett just beyond them, by a faded waysign - do not head back in the direction of the Amsterdam and Bergen ferry terminal - and go through the modern housing estate. To the right, pleasure cratt and fishing boats should be bobbing around at their moorings.
Keep following the C2C, Route 72 and Route 10 signs (they are clustered together) and you will find yourself passing through another modern housing estate. You are now in North Shields, erstwhile home of comedian Stan Laurel.
Following the signs, descend a steep flight of stone steps to the fish quays. You will arrive outside a pub called the Chain Locker, opposite the ferry terminus to South Shields. The view across the Tyne on a good day is worth a pause. You can see, in the far distance, the elegant 19th century façade of the clock tower of South Shields town hall.
Cafes, stores and splendid fish & chip restaurants run the length of the North Shields Quays. This is where Danish and Polish sailors used to integrate vigorously with the local community at a den of iniquity called the Infamous Jungle, now known as the Collingwood Buildings.
You soon round the point where the North Sea meets the Tyne. Welcome to Tynemouth. You pass the 11th century Priory and Castle, and the handsome statue of the man who really won the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805, Admiral Lord Collingwood. Nelson's unassuming and undersung deputy single-handedly took on five French warships for a full hour before the rest of the English fleet caught up. He assumed command upon Nelson's death half-way through the battle, and is Tynemouth's most famous son.
This is a stylish little haven centred upon Front St, a handsome wide avenue built for eating, drinking and promenading. The village is a conservation area of architectural gems from the 18th and 19th centuries. The stretch of shore from here, through Cullercoats and up to Whitley Bay, is known as Newcastle's Côte d'Azur. You will note that there is cycle parking in Tynemouth and Whitley Bay, just over a mile up the coast.
This is where you finish, though there is no obvious place to crack a bottle of Evian Water. No matter. It is a delightful spot and there is bags of accommodation in Whitley Bay, just round the corner (plus a couple of B&Bs in Tynemouth itself).
Don't forget to dip your front wheel in the water.
Accommodation
Hilary & Allen Thompson
Marlborough Hotel, 20-21 East Parade, Promenade, Whitley Bay, NE26 1AP
Telephone
0191 251 3628
Fax
0191 252 5033
Website
www.marlborough-hotel.com
E:
reception@marlborough-hotel.com
Rooms
4S, 6D, 2T, 4F.
B&B
£25-£45
PL
£5
VisitBritain & AA
4 stars (guest accommodation)
Sea front family run hotel in prime position in Whitley Bay. High standards of accommodation (the rooms were recently refurbished) and hospitality. Close to all transport links - secure bike parking plus drying facilities. There is now free WiFi throughout.
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Michael & Marissa Ruddy
York House Hotel, 106-110 Park Avenue, Whitley Bay, NE26 1DN
T
0191 252 8313
F
0191 251 3953
Web
www.yorkhousehotel.com
E
reservations@yorkhousehotel.com
Rooms
2S, 5D, 3T, 3F.
B&B
£27.50-£32.50
PL
£5.95
VisitBritain
4-star (guest accommodation)
Near start and end of C2C, Reivers and Coast & Castles. 100m to the nearest pub and 250m to the beach. Delightful family run hotel conveniently and yet quietly situated close to all amenities. All rooms are en-suite with fridges and microwaves. Secure indoor cycle storage.
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Michael Farwell
Avalon Hotel, 26-28 South Parade, Whitley Bay, Tyne & Wear NE26 2RG
T
0191 251 0080
F
0191 251 0100
Web
www.theavalon.co.uk
E
info@theavalon.co.uk
Rooms
4S, 4D, 7T,1F.
B&B
from £35
EM
by arrangement
PL
by arrangement
Ideal location: the Avalon is also a pub and is close to the start of Reivers and Coast & Castles, and close to the end of the C2C. Family run 3-star hotel with 16 en-suite rooms, secure bike storage, fully licensed bar, restaurant plus washing and drying facilities. Great breakfast and very cycle friendly.
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